Dalmore 25 yo 1990/2016 (56.3%, Cadenhead, Single Cask, sherry butt) Five stars Probably a refill butt, according to the colour. Colour: pale gold. Nose: warm custard and oak at first, then rather croissants and orange blossom water, with a panettone-y side (with apologies to our friends in Northern Italy). Bags of marzipan too. So far, it’s perfect. With water: ever smelled raw cocoa when it arrives to the chocolate factory? Also a very discreet touch of copper, or perhaps tin. And of course, oranges, which is totally Dalmore in my book. Mouth (neat): ooh! Lime and pepper, then Seville oranges and walnut wine, with touches of old amontillado and a wee vinegary side that’s totally perfect in this context. Perhaps white balsamico? (with further apologies to our friends in Northern Italy). With water: even if it weren’t good, it would be interesting (that was useful, S.!) Finish: long, peculiar, citrusy and candied. My grandma was having a tin box where she used to keep various candied citrus fruits, zests and such, for her pastries. Totally that! Comments: they did it again, I’m very afraid. Pure Essence de Dalmore, with echoes of those older official dumpies with their funny silver or golden labels. SGP:661 - 91 points.