Palate: Lemon, salt, peat, rainwater, white pepper. Sounds horrific to some people but it works very well, if a little challenging. Gentle oak and a subtle, creamy sweetness follow before things get too strict.
Finish: Long, stern and slightly bitter – like a snake deputy headteacher passed over for promotion. As you make your way through the glass, the finish gets spicier.
Thoughts: Good mouthfeel, well constructed, layered – there’s real quality here. It’s not too hard on the wallet either ; you can currently get this for around £40, putting it into Ardbeg 10 territory, as far as entry-level bottlings go.