I must confess, the first time I tried this Mortlach, I was not very impressed. The second time was much better, but I still was not convinced. I’m writing these notes during the third round (luckily I got quite a big sample from my buddy Manny, allowing me to try it even five times). It keeps getting better.
The nose is honeysweet on red fruit, leather and coffee. Mokatine, even. You know, the Little Arab candy from Roodthooft in Antwerp (with the Arab on the wrapper). Then some dried apricots and even some gravy. It had been quite a while since I had any umami Mortlach on the nose. There is also a floral note in there and I suspect that’s what kept me from fulling enjoying this in the first place.
It could have done with a bit more body. This is rather lightly oily. The initial sweetness almost knocks the teeth out of my mouth, but that is soon counter-footed by the spices that translate into nutmeg, salt (!) and cloves. The fruit is rather red and dried. It also has a fresh note of menthol, but that cannot convince me. Luckily there is enough going on here to distract the taste buds.
It does make some amends in the finish. Creamy and spicy, sweet on baked banana, dried apricots and tannins. Salty at the death.
Sweet, drying, piquant Mortlach from very active sherry casks. It grows on you.