We walk out onto a dark Gorlitzer Strasse then through Gorlitzer Park. ‘Well-known across Berlin for its rough but unique Kreuzbergian charme, Görlitzer Park is the district’s central recreational area‘ [berlin.de]. Wikipedia tells the darker side.
We successfully negotiate the park, arriving at Cafe Bar Madonna early evening. This place closes at 6:30am! Smoking now appears the norm in bars & clubs in Berlin, and unfortunately Madonna seems particularly prone to nicotine congestion.
In fact, the smoke issue would make the bar insufferable if it weren’t for the whisky [and rum]. Everything I asked for [chosen from a clear menu], was eventually found by keen & friendly staff who phoned the owner twice for advice on locating my request for a Tamdhu from my birth year. An hour later, the owner presented it personally. All whiskies were served in a tulip glass, along with water and a pipette. I felt at home!