18 yo 1991/2009 'Breath of Speyside'
(54.2%, Adelphi, cask #5145, 520 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: even more unusual
than the Laudale, starting curiously
vegetal and dry, a little tarry and
quite toffee-ish. A lot of strong
black tea (unsweetened), cinnamon,
dry raisins, roasted chestnuts and
espresso coffee. With water: it’s
the oak that plays louder now, with
some tannins, grass and bitter chocolate.
It was working better when undiluted
in my opinion. Mouth (neat): thick,
raisiny and as resinous as some much
older whiskies. Concentrated, more
and more on cough syrup, treacle toffee,
strong mint flavoured tea (Marrakesh
in winter, yeah, yeah) and angelica.
If you like heavy, rich and concentrated
whiskies, this is for you. With water:
water works much better than on the
nose, even it gets a tad more drying.
Millionaire’s shortbread, nutmeg,
cinnamon, cocoa powder and white pepper.
Finish: long, drier, oakier but all
that is under control. Comments: a
rather spectacular heavily sherried
Speysider. Quality is high and Ballindalloch
may well not be too far. SGP:461
- 88 points.