Glengoyne 1997/2009 (57.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry butt, cask #582, 314 bottles) Colour: amber. Nose: certainly drier than the 1998, starting more on cocoa and bitter oranges and developing on fruitcake and crème brulée, with an obvious but rather beautiful oakiness behind. Whiffs of leather pouch and then a straighter vinosity (chardonnay). Cognac. Once again, it’s not overly expressive when at cask strength. With water: just a little sulphur, then more rooty and leafy notes (and no more sulphur). Gentian, liquorice wood, dates and figs. Very, very pleasant. Mouth (neat): starts slightly prickly and almost fizzy, with some lemon juice and tannins, then oranges and bitter chocolate. Christmas cake, walnut liqueur. Rather unusual I must say, let’s see what happens with water: it’s still slightly fizzy. Notes of ginger and pepper, with a good deal of tannins. Lemon marmalade. Finish: rather long and maybe more complex, with other spices kicking in as well as some liquorice wood. Herbal tea. Comments: the cask seems to have been extremely active here. Very good Glengoyne, a tad rougher than other versions. I liked the hogshead a little better even if it was more a classic sherry monster. SGP:651 - 86 points.