[October, 2019] I just stumbled upon this first-impression-rating and decided to do a serious review now...
...and I remember a 30-years old Mortlach that was served during a Cadenhead warehouse tasting a couple of years ago which had a comparable profile. It was the winner of that tasting session because it was complex, balanced, flawless and very, very quaffable - exactly like this dram. What else to say? Slainte!
The colour is jonquiripe corn and out of a big spheric blender's glass the nose offers an impressive old-style Highland profile with loads of different ripe fruits, honeys, waxes, sour dough bread, herbs and some interesting buttery notes. This is quite complex and balanced without any off-note. By the way, out of a standard Glencairn glass this nose is much less impressive, I would rate it at 89 points only. After some breathing earthy and dunnage warehouse impressions pop up which further increase the complexity of this fine nose.
The taste is nicely layered on fruits and honeys first before waxy and mineral notes balance the sweetness. Then the spices and some nuts kick in but the sweet side is strengthened by fine molten barley sugars. A quick impression of menthol pops up in a later layer which is a nice surprise. No flaw or imbalance that I can find.
The initial mouthfeel is warming and instantly coating without distracting moments, hence very fine. The finish is long and adds more vanilla-toffee notes that are tasty. No bitter or drying moments at all, this dram was bottled at the right time. Water pushes the earthy-mineral aromas in the nose and turns the taste sweeter (fruits, honeys) with an impression of white chocolate - but to be honest: I like the neat dram best.