And it is as good as I remember it from a bottle I emptied 15 years ago. It owns a Traditional Scotch Highland profile that is hard to find these days among the modern "designed" whiskies - I prefer these old subtle and complex styles clearly over the rather simple "spiked" drams most distilleries produce today.
[October, 2019] I re-tasted this dram tonight and it seems to me much more fruitier than it was with the small serving at the charity tasting. I score the nose 91 points tonight what improves the total score to 91 as well (but I leave the detailed ratings as they were with the first tasting).
The colour is pale gold and the nose offers a delicate old Highland style profile with different honeys and waxes, barley sugars, fruits, spring floral aromas and some earthy notes (pine forest floor). All subtle and complex and it develops greatly upon breathing - so take your time. Later delicious spices and shy herbal aromas join in.
The taste is layered on sweet sugars and honeys first followed by rather bitter spices and wooden notes (tannins) that never get dominant. After that a tasty marzipan-caramel flavour develops before some oils and waxes provide a new impression. No flaw or off-note that I can find. Water releases additional chalky aromas in the nose and turns the taste smoother with more sweeter notes (marzipan). I like this dram both neat and a little reduced to about 40% abv.
The dram arrives warming and nicely coating on the palate without any distracting moments. The finish is long and adds a delicious milk chocolatey flavour that I like. There is a minor drying moment towards the end (cardboards) that is not distracting.