Tree sap smokes, burning rubber, fulls of plasticine, heavily peat
which will surely pleased those smokey nose. Overtimes, sort of lemon-y,
salt, seaweed, mineral come fore, a drift of welcoming freshness with a
touch of sweet sugar cane. Good stuff.
P- Tannin filled to give a dry mouth feel, follow by broad ripe dark sherry fruits, tasty. Well structure and solid.
F- Medium-long, pleasant mouth coating with just the right spiciness,
no unpleasantness despite the young age, very solidly constructed,
Kilchoman ‘Loch Gorm 2015’ (46%, OB, 2015) Five stars A vatting of ex-oloroso butts and ex-sherry hogsheads. Colour: amber. Nose: much, much dirtier than the Machir, and you see, we love dirt in our whiskies. Soot, damp gravel, saltpetre… In fact it’s got something of Longrow, which just can’t be bad news. Cigar ashes, smoked fish, brine, new plastic, engine oil, moss… All great! Mouth: oh very excellent! Same dirty side, ashes, sooty things, bitter oranges, plenty of salt, brine, our beloved olives, a touch of caramel and raisins, caraway… Well I guess I don’t have to oversell it. Finish: quite long, extremely well constructed, always appropriately dirty, a little leathery, citrusy (cleans the dirt), ashy… Comments: it’s a winner in my book, and it’ll join the same cluster as Benromach 10 and Kilkerran Bourbon. I should have tried it earlier. SGP:457 - 90 points.
Quite sulfury I must say, but as if the sulfur didn't come from the sherry, but rather from the distillate. Quite a lot of kohlrabi, aspargus, and brine. Green pepper, marinated garlic, gherkins in vinegar. Deviled eggs and mustard. All these kind of things, you know what I mean very well. Definitely complex ! Quite some lemon as well, fresh ginger, white wine … Feels a bit Japanese at times as well, with rice vinegar, wakame. There's a whole lot to sniff here ! There's a stale fruitiness that shows up. Take a green melon and add ashes and motor oil in place of cured ham and port. Yummy. Later arrives a very complex industrial side, with parget dust, rubber, a tiny bit of soap, of wool. A new synthetic tennis court, or a new car interior, or a new pair of shoes. I can't seem to express it better, hope you figure it out. Actually very little peat as such, it's integrated in the other elements. The only "evident" proof that sherry has been used is actually the very dirty nature of this nose. Very intersting, but maybe not extremely pleasurable.
Excellent texture and alcohol integretion. It's very soft on the arrival but the next second, it blows ! Extremely earthy, sandy and biscuity now. The sherry markers are more obvious, and it's a very dry sherry we're talking about. Lemons became mandarines. Ash, iodine / chlorine and brine are still there, with the same dry spices : curry, caraway, cloves … More pleasurable and coherent than the nose, but a bit less complex. With further sips come softer sides. A peated hazelnut paste ? Brine-soaked apricots ? Between accesibility and firmness.
Dry sherry, sulfury at that. Mandarines with cigar ashes, everlasting traces of vinegar and various earthy nuts. Wool and thuya. Dry stones. Long, austere and focused.
A good surprise overall. The nose can get you a bit lost at times and the soapy / vinegary side can get tiring, but its complexity offsets it. Palate and finish are more coherent, and very enjoyable. A good effort on what sherry can - but usuallly doesn't - bring : rather than implementing a "cask layer", it here tweaks some sides of the distillate while muting others. Not your usual sherry-peat combo. Very intersting, but I tend to prefer the sweeter versions like Sanaig or Madeira better.
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