Domaine des Hautes Glaces 2011/2014 'Flavis' (54%, OB, France, Vin Jaune cask, 323 bottles, 2014) One of the very rare truly ‘terroir’ whiskies out there. Own barley fields, own stills, own warehouse, fully organic… In short, a domain rather than just a factory. This baby was distilled in 2011 but the barley was harvested in 2010. I’m a fan of the concept, but how’s the whisky? Colour: pale gold. Nose: the greater side of breadiness. A breakfast somewhere in Tyrol or Bavaria, with thirty different breads at the buffet. I love it when whisky reeks of cereals and bread. There’s some honeysuckle too, sunflower seeds, fresh butter (breakfast indeed), some toasted brioche (breakfast again) and then fern and, maybe, fresh parsley. Touches of citrons. With water: same. Beautiful bready tones. Mouth (neat): thick and very spicy. Not 100% sure about the vin jaune wood, there’s something oddly dirty and ‘greenly’ sour, but other than that, this baby unfolds with plenty of walnuts (the vin jaune, I guess), a little mustard and many lemony spices. With water: more mustard. Sweet mustard. Finish: long, spicy, mustardy and lemony. Comments: truly craft. No junk ‘marketing’ craft. Having said that – and not my business at all of course -, I wouldn’t use wine wood. The distillate’s pristine enough. SGP:361 - 80 points.
Serge valentin whiskyfun