The Mortlach 25 Year Old is, to paraphrase ambassador Georgie Bell, like a Kruger Brut champagne. Not for everyone’s pocketbook, but also not for every day. This is something to enjoy at special occasions. Well, writing a tasting note seems special enough. It matured completely on refill hogsheads from the States.
The nose is absolutely stunning. Very aromatic and succulently fruity. Beeswax, oranges, melon, apricots with a hint of passion fruit. Quite some potpourri. The whole is drenched in juicy honey. Sandal and cedar wood. No trace of the typically meaty aromas. A whiff of mint. Or is that eucalyptus? Almonds? Boy, this truly is a grand nose.
It is very oily, almost fatty, on the palate. The fruit and almonds return immediately, followed by a whole plethora of spices, most of it peppers. Midpalate it becomes fruitier still with plums and peach. Hint of coughing syrup and aniseed. Very rich and mouthcoating. This is tasty.
In the long finish, which starts off quite sweet, the spices have the final say.
What a beautiful monster indeed. The Kruger Brut of Mortlach. The question, however, is how many people will be willing to fork over 768 EUR for a 50cl bottle. That means, were it a regular 70cl bottle, you’d have to pay over 1.000 EUR. Holy crap!