There is ample stock of independent Mortlach, to be sure. This Mortlach 2006 comes in the Exclusive Range by the Creative Whisky Company. It is only 8 years old.
The nose is creamy, almost fatty. The first thing my olfactory memory conjures up is a box full of butterscotch. Like those flat round Quality Street candy, remember? Vanilla custard. It is a bit of a search for fruit, but I do believe I get some lemon and gooseberries and a tiny bit of orange peel. The oak is obvious on the nose, but not in the least disturbing.
The body is quite light, but tasty. The fruit is a bit rounder and fuller now. Next to citrus I also get some mango and apricots. Good. The wood offers a touch of bitterness, creating a fine balance. Midpalate it gets a surprising candy-like quality, even mildly floral. Did not see that one coming.
The finish is surprisingly long, a bit smoky and bittersweet.
Nice, young Mortlach for those with a sweet tooth and fearless of a bit of wood. Around 45 EUR. Thanks, Imanuel.