Dave Broom from scotchwhisky.com says:NOSE
I find it strangely shy to begin with, especially since the ruby red colour suggests this has spent a long time in first fill Sherry. There’s a slightly singed, crusted note with whiffs of a tackroom: saddle soap, hoof glue, leather behind which you find gentle, soft orchard and tropical fruits, which are unusual in Laphroaig. Tight and closed, it needs time and a splash to open up its shutters, when out comes classic old church aromas. After an hour it becomes more tarry.
Amazingly, the palate is all tropical fruits to the fore, dominating the front palate. The smoke only starts to build from the mid-palate onwards, slowly increasing in power, while the Sherried element is always in check – it’s just the touches of treacle on the end that suggests it’s there at all.
Long, fruity. slightly tarry.
A counter-intuitive Laphroaig. It should be massive, and tannic, and medicinal. Instead, it is fruity and smoked. Extraordinary.
RIGHT PLACE, RIGHT TIME
Try this with Aine O’Dwyer’s marvellous solo organ improvisations Music For Church Cleaners.
Scores a 9.4/10