Macallan 18 yo 1979/1997 'Gran Reserva'
The old hyper-sherried version of
the popular 18yo. I didn’t like
the 1980 too much but I’ve heard
this 1979 is much superior. Colour:
dark mahogany. Nose: yes, this is
extremely different from any other
Macallan. Starts on heady notes of
mulled wine, cloves, big juniper berries,
spearmint and coffee toffee and gets
then more classically sherried, with
the dark chocolate upfront and then
notes of soy sauce, balsamico and
barbecued beef. Also cigar box, thuja
wood and very ripe blackberries. What’s
quite incredible is that the whole
is still quite fresh and lively, and
certainly not sluggish. I like it.
Mouth: thick, oily, rich, not weak
at all despite the 40%, and more of
a classic now. Heavy notes of rum-soaked
raisins, figs, old rancio (huge!)
and orange and herbs liqueur (like
that famous Dantziger Goldwasser).
Gets then spicier, mainly on cloves
and pepper, with very funny hints
of mescal as well. Excellent, really.
Finish: long, coating, rich but clean
and pure, with a faint saltiness as
the signature and an aftertaste on
blackberry jelly. Excellent sherried
Macallan, certainly not on the same
planet as its bros from 1980 and later.
- 91 points.whiskyfun.com