Caol Ila 23 yo 1984/2008 'Local AI' (57.2%, The Nectar, Daily Dram, 198 bottles) Colour: white wine. Nose: a little more wood influence (read vanilla) here but other than that it’s really like the 1996, only with more ageing. Gets more complex after a few minutes, though, with more iodine and more dill, mint and aniseed. Or make that fennel. Very pleasant ashy notes as well, a little wet chalk... It’s only after ten good minutes that it really takes off, that is, getting very farmy and maritime at the same time, all that along some beautiful notes of marzipan and putty. This one needs time! With water: this is funny, now it got fully coastal. Sea air, shells, iodine, fisherman’s net and bikinis. Not bikinis. Mouth (neat): it’s like the official 18yo, only at cask strength. Enough said. With water: a middle-aged Caol Ila in its full glory. Almonds, clams, salt, peat, pepper and crystallised lemons. Totally classic. Finish: long, with more pepper and peat and less of the rest. Comments: another one that one shouldn’t try to assess too quickly, but then it really delivers. Beautiful. SGP:346 – 90 points.