Colour: Sahara sand
A dram this big and challenging was bound to split the panel; the nose was amazingly complex - from sticky toffee pudding to caramelised pork, from cheap cola to oily rags, from heather, lavender and thyme to dates, quince and rose. The palate was more divisive - a tongue-roasting, breath-taking, manly man’s dram; over-heated car engines in the desert, just balanced by floral, candy sweetness. The reduced nose had cinder toffee and diesel fumes and the palate suggested peppered candy or chilli fried on an exhaust manifold with a mirabellenwasser finish; contentious, but full of character. Duncan MacCallum haunts his old distillery.