Color: Mellow Gold
Nose: It's not hyper-assertive, so I suppose with this age and pedigree, you could call it "dignified" and not be too hyperbolic. I'm always wary of finding some salient flavor profiles that other reviewers or the whisky writing public in general point out, but this is quite rubbery. I also do get leather. So, yes, I've read Serge's Port Ellen reviews and find that he's not off base in that impression here. Otherwise, there's a fairly standard, nice coastal character present, namely, briny lemons. The interplay between these elements as the dram has time in the glass is pretty impressive.
Taste: Wow. That's huge. Not a particularly oily or thick mouthfeel, but the flavor concentration smacks you in the face when tasted neat initially. The dignity and subtly of the nose is out the window. Big notes of tar, rubber, etc. The lemons come through to keep it from skewing too much towards brimstone. Really outstanding that it has this power at 31 yo.
Finish: Really long, smoldering ash.
Comments: Before tasting, the nose had it in the 90-91 range. So, a terrific nose, but nothing too crazy as to take me out of the range that I'd feel comfortable scoring a normal dram that's just really good. Once you get above 91 or so, I start worrying about being too liberal with points. Well, the palate of this pushed me into that realm. This is glorious stuff. Maybe I'll feel more comfortable going even higher one day, but two points above anything else I've scored seems appropriate to me for now.