(43%, Gordon & MacPhail 2009)
Nose: starts coastal and slightly sour, but folds open nicely and displays everything a good sherry cask should have. Figs, leather, polished oak… with an above average amount of mint and coastal notes (wet limestone, sea breeze). Lovely notes of tropical fruits in the background (papaya, kumquat). Excellent. Mouth: still some lovely fruity notes (oranges, tangerine) and fruit tea with an oaky sourness. Interesting balance of sweet & sour (I love Madeira). The oak is loud although it’s not excessively dry. Fades on soft herbs, liquorice and a hint of mustard seed and salty Manzanilla sherry. Finish: medium long, with Seville oranges and the same oaky touches.
I’ve never had such an old Pulteney, but this was a really interesting combination of salt and sherry. Especially for nosing. Sold out but occasionally seen in auctions.