Basically a wooden washback. Yeasty, sour-sweet, with big barley and yoghurt notes framed by oak. Almost reminds me of Ben Nevis in a way. Certainly has a rugged, naturalistic charm of its own, but it's also pretty far removed from my Platonic ideal of what a 24-year-old boubon-cask-matured malt should bring to the table.
Wait, what's the ABV again? Super sweet and mild; this really feels like 43-46 percent. Close to 50? Amazing...
It's plenty of white fruit pulp upfront: pineapple, melon, lychee... Juicy and rich on the palate, with just enough acidity to keep it fresh, and not a tart moment in sight until it runs down the hatch. At the death, you get more spice and pepper, but it's well within limits. The immature yeasty aspcect from the nose is mostly irrelevant on the palate. Very good development that hits at least four different major taste impressions (sweet, sour, spicy, tart).
Curiously, the excellent flavor impression doesn't carry through into the finish all the way. Here, the tart aspect wins out over the sweet and juicy character eventually. Still very good, though.