First impressions were orange jellied fruits and orange sorbet, maybe some lavender; then we found dunnage, wine in leather skins and flamenco-battered floorboards. The chewy palate had peaches in syrup and chocolate marmalade cake, some elusive floral notes, pickled ginger and peppery heat. Adding water led the nose to orange raisin cake, bramble jelly, marrons glaces, sugared almonds and rhubarb rock. The palate was now sweet, warm and winey; fruit leathers, summer pudding, stem ginger in syrup and biscotti dunked in Marsala - silky oak tannins to finish. After 24 years in ex-bourbon wood we introduced this to a second-fill oloroso hogshead.