Glen Grant 62 yo 1956/2019 (51.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, Mr George Centenary Edition, first fill sherry butt, cask #4455, 235 bottles) Five stars
This incredibly old Glen Grant was just bottled to celebrate the 100 years of former G&M CEO George Urquhart. We’ve tried a handful of 1956s by G&M already, and they have been stunning, especially one for LMDW’s 50th Anniversary, bottled – and tasted - in 2005 (WF 93!) Colour: deep amber. Nose: magnificent. The dashboard of an old Bentley (well, works with Austins too) that’s just been redone, natural varnishes and polishes, this faintly miso-y side yet again, a stunning pine-y earthiness (that walk in the woods, rather pines and firs here), an almost unnoticeable touch of Marmite and malt extract, and just one tiny porcini. Bold and subtle at the same time, but that may be the surprisingly high strength. With water: fatbulous! There, those honeyed notes that were missing a bit in the ’72, they’re all here. Basically, it’s akin to the best mead in the world, plus the best brioche and the best dried figs. Mouth (neat): hurray, no over-woodiness at all (really, at all) and rather a fantastic chestnut honey – marmalade – mint liqueur combination. This is very wow. Wonderful touches of bouillon again, Chinese fondue, miso, Maggi… With water: incredible balance and almost under-oakiness. There is quite some oak of course, but it is not oaky at all, go figure. Time to call the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade, perhaps. Finish: long, on the same exceptional meady notes, sultanas, earl grey, bergamots, chocolate, and, well, just the whole dictionary. Comments: you’d almost believe they’ve used demi-johns like in Cognac and moved this one to a secret paradise around 30 years ago, but of course they haven’t. I haven’t checked the price – who counts anyway? (careful, S.)
SGP:561 - 93 points.