As usual, and as stated on the label, the bottlers are confident this
was matured in an oak cask. Because we all know that could have been
ebony or rosewood ;-). But let’s be serious, we’ve already tasted some
stunning 1987s, especially some by Samaroli, Moon, or Signatory. Colour:
Sancerre. I mean, pale white wine. Nose: between rocket fuel, nail
polish remover, and lamp oil. Now what’s good is that these aggressive
varnishy notes tend to go away, as almost always, leaving room for some
rather immaculate smoked apples and pears. Well not sure anyone’s ever
tried to smoke apples and pears, but I’m sure this is what would occur.
Plus raw smoked barley (kiln) and smoky porridge. Ah, nature! With
water: old towels in an abandoned hotel room somewhere in Campbeltown.
I-am-not-making-this-up. Mouth (neat): hits you behind your ears, with
plenty of citric apples (cider apples) and a raw, very mineral smoke.
And then the saltiness kicks in, while the whole is getting smokier by
the second. Pristine, immaculate young peater, with a growing
minerality. Minerality is not something all peaters possess. With water:
gets gentler, almost rounder, with some apple pie and drops of this
‘thing’ they serve you on pancakes for breakfast in the UK. No, no, it’s
not maple syrup, it’s some kind of sweet concoction. Perhaps maize/corn
syrup? In this context, it’s good. Finish: yeah, lemon! Lemon enhances
and lifts just any malt whisky. Wonderful green zestiness. Comments:
still a little rough around the edges, despite the twenty years of
bottle aging (my god, twenty years already!) but the spirit is first
class. SGP:464 - 88 points.