From Serge: 91 Points
Colour: gold. Nose: this one’s more vegetal, more on sour beers, porridge, dairy cream, that old tweed jacket, that rainwater, crabs, scallops, fern, autumn leaves… With water: a touch of Jerez vinegar, some ripe peaches, roasted peanuts, green tea… Mouth (neat): ah, perfect. Mango juice, grapefruit, anchovy brine, kippers, grapeseed oil, seawater… With water: salty grasses, sauvignon blanc, ultra-dry champagne, grapefruit juice, brine, gentian eau-de-vie… Finish: rather long, sour, but with an extremely pleasant tropical fruitiness… Would love to try this when it’s become, say, 30 years. A future new Sea Dragon? I’m even finding infinitesimal touches or rosewater in the aftertaste. Comments: this make is as fantastic as it used to be, assertive yet complex and delicate.