by Scotchwhisky.com - 95 points (Outstanding)
Mature and initially fruity, then you pick up tobacco pouch, game pie with redcurrant jelly, peaches in brandy, a tiny hint of cereal, then red liquorice and an increasingly funky element. Grows and deepens, becoming ever more complex so that it can encompass the sweetness of Manuka honey, beeswax-polished furniture, leather-bound books, roast venison, and baked fruits. Water increases the gravitas and concentration, while smoke from an incense stick flutters in the background.
Elegant and layered. A big, rich, multifaceted dram which holds its strength well. You pick up melted chocolate, heavy black fruits, balanced by a (very Mortlach-like) sweet earthiness. In time, there’s some Seville orange, then pipe tobacco. As with the nose you are overwhelmed by a fluxing, shifting mix of the sweet and the savoury, the light and lifted, and the rooted and heavy. There’s a huge retronasal mix of venison and dry leaves, while a drop of water adds lift and a dusty exoticism that brings to mind dried rose petal and treacle toffee.
Burnt meat, then sweetness once again.
Remarkable. Whiskies like this don’t come along very often. You know what to do.
I completely admit - this one is outstanding, especially the taste!