I have to say that obviously Gordon&MacPhail is not on the same track of flooding the German market with sulphur-spoiled releases as so many other bottlers do. You make me feel good this way and I will buy some of your nice recent bottlings for that (most probably), dear G&M!
[October, 2019] I re-tasted this dram tonight and fully confirm my old review (I added more impressions below) and score. A modern sherried Mortlach which is quaffable, what a nice surprise...
The colour is auburn and the nose is all about a clean modern sherry profile with the typical fat Mortlach toffee spike, the first sherried (modern) Mortlach I really like since years... This must have been an European oak cask because the herbal notes are significant and they nicely interact with the sweet and sour malt and sherry aromas. Later some hot spices join in as well, so take your time with this nose.
The taste is all about sherry-induced flavours within a crème brûlée setting (the trademark Mortlach taste). Not too bad! The herbs are more shy here and pop up after some chewing efforts only, but it is worth to go for that because the chewing releases a tasty mocha-chocolatey flavour too. There are some hints of sulphur in there but I guess most drinkers will not recognise them at all and even my taste buds accept them as an additional "flavour compound". Without this little flaw I would have scored the taste 90 points.
The mouthfeel is a little hot and peppery but nicely coating too (here the minor sulphurous notes help, of course). The finish is of medium length and again sherry wine-sweet with no distracting moments. Water releases more aromas in the nose and makes the taste even more approachable, I like it that way better.